This was converted from a Ford Transit van to a half height cruiser cargo barrier.   

Because I'm a cheapskate and thought it would be easy, I decided to make my own cargo barrier.  I've always thought they're a good safety system for 4WD's with all the crap you carry around on rough roads, especially if you've got little ones in the back.  So I got on ebay and soon picked up a old Milford cargo barrier out of a Transit postal van for $19.  

It came in two halves, with a the top half being able to fold down.  I don't know exactly how the posties used it, but it seems like a good idea.  Anyway, I was lucky that the top half fitted almost exactly into the space above my rear drawer setup.

Cutting and welding

So after separating the two halves it was test fitted into position.  The top right hand corner was a bit high, and was touching the headliner.  I figured this could end up rubbing through over time, so out came the angle grinder to cut the section out.  The picture below shows the new piece that was welded in.

.The mig was used to weld this section in.   The arc welder would probably just burn the 3mm wire away instead of welding it to the frame.   In case you're wondering the box section that makes up the framing is about 19 x 2.3 mm, which I think is some kind of imperial measurement.

the other thing that was added was a second vertical bar through the middle, this was to neaten it up symmetrically and add some strength. 

Lower Brackets

So for the brackets.  I was originally thinking to mount the lower brackets straight onto the drawer system with a steel plate underneath.  The drawer top (false floor) you can see is made of a carpeted plywood.  But after advice from those more experienced than me, I was convinced that would compromise the strength.  Ply isn't particularly strong, and the body mounting has worked out well.

Since my car was originally a 7 seater, it happens to have a couple of 8mm mounting holes on the wheel arch's that were originally used to mount the 3rd row seat.  They make the perfect mounting bracket location.  So using 5x25 mm steel I made up a some brackets, there are pics which describe it better than I can.

The lower brackets mount to the wheel arch, and finish flush underneath the drawer top.  There is a captive nut welded underneath, which lines up with an 11 or 12 mm hole drilled through the drawer top.  See pics.

The lower mounting feet on the cargo barrier were also made up with 5x25 mm steel, and arc welded onto the cargo barrier.  This is the same material thickness used by Milford. The tricky bit was lining it all up through the drawer floor.  Described below... for those interested.

Top Brackets

With the lower part fixed in place, the top brackets could be made.  I had a Milford cargo barrier installation kit on hand which I used as a template.  I originally purchased the kit for my full size barrier, but then got the drawers and never used it.

The Milford kits work by drilling holes into your bodywork, this was a bit scary.  I debated wether I should use the rear grab handle mounts to avoid drilling, since grab handles can take a fair weight.  But I couldn't help thinking that if this thing doesn't work the one time I want it to in an accident, there's no point even having it, and since the grab handles are only 6mm captive nuts, I decided to go with the 'tested' Milford mounting method.

So I made up some plates exactly like the Milford ones, which allows me to use the Milford kit in the future if I want to.

The plate fits in behind the headliner and sheetmetal.  You need to drill a 22mm hole into the roof structure feed it through.  After lining it all up in the position suggested by Milford for the full height cargo barrier, I drilled the scary 22mm hole, and 9mm holes either side.  The step drill was brilliant for the large hole.  Plus there was plenty of room behind in the cavity, more than the 20mm as suggested.  You can tell how much room there is by poking a wire in after drilling the pilot holes.

Below pic shows the 22mm and 9mm holes either side, with the plate mounted in behind.  The copper wire thing is a tool from the kit which just helps you line up the plate and avoid losing it into the cavity.  I dabbed some primer on  to the raw cuts to protect them a little.

I didn't like the Milford plastic finish covers for the top, so I made my own with 5 x 25mm steel plate, see below.  I think it creates a much nicer and more solid finish. 

Then it was just a matter of bending up more brackets.   Two 5x25 mm ones that welded onto the cargo barrier, and two 3x25mm ones that stretch between the barrier and roof.  Add in a few unbrako internal hex head bolts and it all fits up together nicely.`

I have noticed some but not all of the Milford barriers have a wavy finish in their brackets which I assume is for impact softening/absorption - as they stretch out.  I don't know how much affect this would have, but since it was a bit difficult to make it that way,  my brackets are essentially straight.  I guess that means more energy is transferred into the vehicle body or some other area of the cargo barrier, and I couldn't say which bit would be the weakest link.   Anyway, I think it's fairly solid and should hold up well.

Child seat holes

I almost cut in some holes for a baby seat, but then discovered the baby seat strap fitted straight through the 20x50 mesh anyway.  It doesn't look like rubbing or abrasion should cause any issue, but I still might put a sleeve over the strap just to avoid the possibility.

Colour and painting

I hate sanding.  The original powder coating on the wire mesh seemed to peel off pretty easy so I scrubbed it all back with a wire brush (on the end of a drill seemed best).  It took a while, but allowed me to have a nice bare metal finish to paint back up in my own colour.  I chose to go with a mid/dark grey, as it matches the interior pretty well, and I thought it would be less noticeable in the mirror than matt black - I'd be interested to know if that's right.  Anyway I think it looks alright.

Wrap up

So there you go, I now have a cheap and solid cargo barrier.  Took a while, but got there in the end.

Locating the lower brackets

You might not follow this, but In short, I did this by positioning the barrier first, then making and welding the foot brackets onto the barrier.  With the barrier in position, I drilled through the carpet where the foot bracket holes were located.  The wheel arch brackets had to line up with this hole. 

They were made in two pieces, like a T.  They were lined up to the carpet hole by threading a hole in the lower piece  and screwing the bracket together.  When positioned, they were welded together and the bolt removed.

 Hope this makes some sense.